At HayDay, one of the first things we gently explain to new owners is this: rabbits aren’t low-effort or “starter” pets.
They’re sensitive, intelligent animals that rely heavily on routine, a balanced diet and a calm environment. When those needs are met, they’re also incredibly clean - which is why litter training usually works so well.
The trick isn’t forcing your rabbit’s behaviour. It’s creating a setup that feels right from a rabbit’s point of view.
Why Litter Training Works for Rabbits
Rabbits naturally choose one or two toilet spots to do their business. If you’ve ever noticed your rabbit heading back to the same corner again and again, that’s instinct at work.
They prefer toileting along edges or in tucked away spaces where they feel protected and safe to go. They also dislike unclean living areas, which means a clean and well-placed litter tray quickly becomes the obvious choice.
Litter training isn’t about teaching something new; it’s about guiding a habit that already exists, which you may not have noticed, to somewhere convenient for you and your bunny.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Getting the basics right from the off makes everything easier and less stressful for you both.
A large litter tray is important. Rabbits like enough room to sit comfortably, not perch on the edge. Trays with one lower side are easier to access, while a higher back helps keep litter in place.
Choose a rabbit-safe litter, such as paper-based litter, straw, or pellet litter designed for small animals. Always avoid wood shavings, which can irritate sensitive areas such as getting stuck to their fur.
Ensure to have some temporary barriers ready to contain any mess. Reducing space early on helps prevent accidents and keeps learning clear.
Keep some of our super fresh feeding rabbit hay to hand. If you didn’t know, rabbits often eat and toilet at the same time, so placing hay in or at one end of the tray helps reinforce good habits naturally.
How to Litter Train Your Rabbit (Without Stress)
Rabbits can be litter trained at any age, but neutered rabbits usually find it easier, as they’re less likely to go around marking their territory in random places.
Start by limiting your rabbit’s space using barriers. This isn’t about restriction but it’s about clarity - watch where your rabbit already goes. That spot, usually a corner, is where the litter tray should go.
Add a small amount of litter, then place a little of your rabbit’s droppings or urine-soaked bedding into the tray. Familiar smells matter more to rabbits than we often realise.
Put fresh hay into the tray or along one side, then step back. Many rabbits will hop in to eat and naturally use the tray at the same time.
If your rabbit uses the tray, quiet praise or a small treat is enough. If they miss, clean the area thoroughly with an unscented pet urine cleaner or mild biological detergent mixed with water. Strong smells can confuse rabbits and slow progress.
As habits become consistent, gradually open up more space and let your rabbit explore at their own pace.
What Else Can Go in a Rabbit Litter Tray?
Beyond the standard litter and comfy hay, there are a few extras that can help as long as they’re used sensibly.
A small amount of straw can be mixed lightly with paper based litter to add comfort and insulation. Straw isn’t very absorbent on its own, but it can make the tray feel softer and more inviting.
Other bits of forage like dried herbs or leaves, used sparingly, can encourage reluctant rabbits to spend more time in the tray. Options like plantain, dandelion leaves or chamomile work well mixed into the hay rather than scattered across the tray.
Some rabbits prefer variety in hay texture too. Mixing two different types of hay - for example, timothy with a little meadow or ryegrass hay, can make the tray more appealing without overdoing it. Enticing them in with offerings for human food like cabbage or rocket could work too.
For extra floor protection, puppy training pads placed under the tray (not inside it) can help during training or with rabbits and swift cleaning up. These should always be out of reach to prevent chewing when you're not looking!
What’s Best Left Out of the Litter Tray
Even if they’re commonly suggested, some of the following items we believe are better avoided:
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Cat litter, including “natural” or clumping types, isn’t safe if ingested.
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Wood shavings can be dusty and irritating.
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Scented bedding often puts rabbits off using the tray.
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Loose newspaper alone becomes soggy and uncomfortable.
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Fabric liners can trap moisture and encourage chewing.
If something is dusty, strongly scented or unsafe to nibble, it doesn’t belong in a rabbit’s litter tray.
When Litter Training Takes Longer
Some rabbits learn in days and others can take a little longer. Hormones, stress, changes in routine or even rearranging furniture can cause temporary setbacks.
When that happens, going back to basics usually helps: clean the tray, check placement, reduce space again and keep routines calm and predictable.
A Final Word from HayDay
Rabbits notice the small things. When their space feels safe, familiar and comfortable, good habits tend to follow.
Litter training works best when it’s calm, consistent, and built around how rabbits actually behave - not how we expect them to. With the right setup and a loving bit of patience, most rabbits settle into reliable habits that last
Frequently Asked Questions About Litter Training Rabbits
How long does it usually take to litter train a rabbit?
Some rabbits pick it up within a few days, while others take a couple of weeks. It often depends on age, whether they’re neutered, and how settled they feel in their environment. Progress is rarely perfectly linear - small setbacks are normal.
Can bonded rabbits share the same litter tray?
Yes, many bonded pairs or groups happily share a litter tray. In fact, some rabbits seem more confident using a tray when they see a companion doing the same. That said, offering two trays at first can help avoid competition while habits form.
Do rabbits need more than one litter tray?
Larger living spaces often benefit from more than one tray, especially during training. Once habits are consistent, many rabbits naturally reduce themselves to using just one preferred spot.
Why does my rabbit kick litter out of the tray?
This is usually digging behaviour rather than bad training. A deeper tray, higher back edge, or heavier litter base can help. Some rabbits also do this when they’re bored or full of energy.
Is it normal for rabbits to leave droppings outside the litter tray?
A few stray droppings outside the tray are completely normal, even for well trained rabbits. These are often territorial or communication droppings rather than accidents.
Should I remove droppings from the tray straight away?
You don’t need to rush to remove every dropping. Rabbits rely on familiar smells, and a completely scent free tray can actually slow training. Regular cleaning is important, but leaving some scent helps reinforce habits.
Can I litter train a rabbit that lives both indoors and outdoors?
Yes, but consistency is key. Using similar trays and materials in both spaces helps rabbits understand that the same rules apply wherever they are.
What if my rabbit suddenly stops using the litter tray?
Sudden changes can be caused by stress, illness, hormonal behaviour, or changes in the home. If the change is abrupt or paired with other symptoms, a vet check is always a good idea.
